The Colorist | 30 Under 30

Colorists Worth Watching

Finding and cultivating new talent is essential if our industry is to thrive. That’s why we spent the last year asking salon owners and hair color manufacturers to help us find 30 colorists age 30 and under who show great promise.

Will one of them be the next Beth Minardi or Jason Backe, the next Sue Pemberton or Kim Vo? Only time will tell, of course, but we expect big things from the young people who made our list this year. You might want to remember their names.

Sammy Van Valkenberg | L’Oréal Professionnel

knew that she wanted to work at Jet Rhys Hair Salon in San Diego because they specialize in color, which was her passion in beauty school. With her career on the fast track right now, she looks forward to becoming an educator and senior colorist with a full book. In the meantime, she’s marketing a new service called Sunkissed Ribbons, which she describes as a balayage highlight.

Fall’s Hottest Hair Color Trends

By Krista Bennett DeMaio

Whether you’re craving a cool blonde, rich brunette, or vibrant red shade, here’s your celeb-inspired, expert-approved fall hair color report

Cashmere Blonde

“Say bye-bye to yellow blonde and hello to soft cashmere—a very expensive-looking haircolor,” says San Diego-based salon owner and colorist Jet Rhys, who cites Michelle Williams as the perfect example. The icy hue is a blend of several soft tones such as pale ivory, mink, and sandy blonde.

Color Veiling

This trend is more about the technique than the actual color. The top layer of hair is dyed lighter than the base, creating a see-through, veil-like effect when the darker shade peeks through, Rhys says. Jennifer Aniston is currently sporting the trend with her light-on-dark blonde hue.

Bronde

Not light enough to be a full-fledged blonde but not quite dark enough to be considered a true brunette, this gorgeous shade, called bronde (brown-blonde) is somewhere in the middle of the two. These honey, caramel, and butterscotch shades really pop on women who, like Jennifer Lopez, have a warm complexion.

Cocoa Brown

This season, brunettes are getting darker and glossier. It’s all about the cocoa and sable browns, without any hint of brassiness (a.k.a. orange tones), Rhys explains. And while Mila Kunis’ color may look like one single tone, it’s most likely a blend of three to four shades. “No one strand of color is exactly the same,” Rhys says, which is key for creating dimension and high-shine.

Copper Penny Red

Weaving golden copper tones into a vibrant red base makes for a sophisticated and rich red. “This color looks amazing on anyone with a creamy, milky skin tone,” Rhys says. Case in point: Check out how radiant Jessica Chastain’s alabaster skin looks against her copper-y strands.

Sombré

The latest spin on the ever-popular ombré hair color (a gradation from dark to light) is sombré, or the much more subtle ombré. Gone are the dark roots and super-light tips or the harsh line of demarcation that tends to appear mid-shaft. It’s a “calmed-down,” more gradual version where the roots are only slightly darker than the ends, Rhys says. “The overall look is more polished and grownup-looking.” Jennifer Lawrence’s honey-hued hair is a prime example.

photos courtesy of Shape.com & Getty Images

New Emma Stone Look to Steal: The Tousled Bob

By Aly Walansky

“I absolutely love this look on Emma!” says celebrity hair stylist Jet Rhys. “It’s super easy and glamorous, no haircut required!” Emma’s adorable — and her short and sassy hairstyle with small curls gives her the perfect tousled bob. This short curly hairstyle draws attention to her eyes and compliments her playful and fun personality, and can for you as well!

To steal this look bulk up your hair with a bundle of thickening products, this will help hold your look! Start out with a thickening shampoo and conditioner (try Bumble and Bumble). Avoid heavy pomades and waxes because they will only weigh the hair down. Great looks like this one are likely created by cocktailing styling products!

How To Get Emma’s Exact Look:

1. Create the foundation for a long-lasting style by generously spraying a thickening spray at the root area and working a mousse throughout the root area of damp hair.

2. Next, blow dry hair to 90% dry using your fingers in a scrunch-like manner. This will really amp up the volume! If you drag your fingers through the hair as you are drying it, you are actually deflating the root area and may be setting up your style to collapse!

3. Finally, use your round brush and dryer to roll your ends under at the bottom. Through your layers, roll back on a diagonal. Next, tuck and roll your ends under and pin them close to your nape. Gently push your bangs over to graze your eye and spritz all over with hairspray. Jet loves L’Oreal Elnett. It’s a versatile workable spray that holds without being stiff!

This voluminous, wavy take on the bob is super flirty and has a sort of disheveled sexiness that reminds us of Bridget Bardot. An asymmetrical outline is flattering for almost any face, and the tousled finish is simple to style. This is a great cut to pair with chunky fall sweaters and draped scarves, but can be fun and feminine all year round!

InStyle Contributors

A Round of Applause for our Experts

The country’s best makeup and nail pros, hair gurus, and dermatologists took time out of their insanely busy schedules–A-list patients to see! Stars to preen!–to offer up their votes and quotes on 2013’s most winning products. It all starts on p. 297

InStyle Hair: Your Guide to the Country’s Best Salon Steals

Solana Beach

Jet Rhys Salon

The Price $70
Glossy black and fuchsia walls plus neon lights and chrome fixtures deliver plenty of flash for the open floor plan. But you hardly notice 10 minutes into a sublime wash and head massage (made even more enjoyable thanks to flatscreen televisions set above the shampoo chairs). Stylist Mallory Zuidema asks long-haired clients to stand while she clips so she can better see how her wet cut is shaping up. The pro gave our tester a mane makeover, taking her waist-long waves to mid-back and wielding a razor to craft bold, brow-skimming bangs.

Health: How Bad Is That Beauty Habit, Really?

By Petra Guglielmetti

Want a better blow-out?

Clean your hairbrush: “If hair is wrapped around the bristles, the brush can’t grab, bend, and curl the hair as effectively,” says San Diego–based hairstylist Jet Rhys.

Hair Horrors

THE HABIT

Skipping shampoo (um, a lot)

THE VERDICT

Hey, it’s OK!

No need to feel like a slacker—there are benefits to not sudsing up daily (less wear- and-tear and better shine, for starters). But if your hair looks flat or oily, refresh it with dry shampoo and a dryer blast. We like (7) Schwarzkopf Professional osis refresh Dust ($22; Ulta). Or, Rhys suggests, try an old- school alternative: baby powder.

OK! Rockstar Essential Must-haves!

by: Pandora Amoratis

CRAZY-HUE’D ‘DOS ARE COOL

Colored hair like Pink’s sets you apart from the norm. It’s a whole package from head to toe,” says celebrity colorist Jet Rhys.

Hairstyle: Tress Your Best

Get up-to-speed on what’s happening in the world of hair & beauty.

Hurry-up Hair Tips

Speed up your morning routine with these styling helpers from Jet Rhys of her namesake salon in San Diego, CA.

Detangling hair when you’re in a rush is apt to cause damage and split ends. “To save styling time, keep a detangling brush in the shower to smooth out your hair while running conditioner through it,” says Rhys. Her personal fave is the Tangle Teezer; $14.99, tangleteezer.com

When there’s no time to blow-dry, Rhys suggests working an anti-frizz cream through strands. “Quickly weave hair into a loose, three-strand braid, wrap it into a bun and bobby-pin it in place. Once hair dries, unbraid it and you’ll release beautiful waves that will take you from office to a dinner date.”

Try wearing your hair between chin- and shoulder-length so it’s short enough to air-dry or quickly blow-dry, but long enough to pull back if you absolutely need to.

Good Housekeeping: Anti-aging Haircuts

Lose Some Length…

Über-long hair is a tough look for over-40 women. “I call it the ‘1661’– a woman’s long hair makes her look 16 from the back, but from the front you see she is actually nearing retirement age,” says Pantene celebrity hairstylist Danilo. A universally flattering length: to the collarbone. “A cut that grazes the collar and has face-framing layers also draws attention away from an aging neck,” says Jet Rhys, a San Diego stylist.

…But Don’t Overdo It

How short is too short? There’s no rule, but keep in mind that the end point of your cut emphasizes the facial feature next to it, says Rhys. So if you’re concerned about a sagging jawline, don’t ask for a chin-length bob. And remember that a short ‘do isn’t an excuse to hang up your blow dryer. “Too many women think a short cut is a free pass to forgo styling, but when hair has no polish, it can look matronly,” she says. Cropped styles are modern and youthful when they’re smooth and sleek; if those qualities don’t come naturally to your hair, use a frizz-fighter, like ColorProof HeatProof Anti-Frizz Blow Dry Crème ($28, salons), before styling.

Embrace Change

“If you have the same ‘do you had 10 years ago, it’s time for a new look,” says Nick Arrojo, owner of Arrojo Studio, NYC. “You’re not wearing the same clothes–why have the same hair?” If you’re leery of drastic change, take baby steps. “Something as simple as moving your part can update your look,” says Rhys.

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Solana Beach

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Celebrity Hairstyles: Spring 2013

Show-Stopping

Try one of these cutting-edge cuts before everyone else.

Make your mane totally turn heads with a striking, of-the-moment shape. Here’s all you need to know about the dramatic styles, courtesy of tress expert Jet Rhys of her namesake California salons.

Graphic Bob

STYLE SCOOP:
With step-cut sides, a wedge-shaped back and under panels that hug the head, this look is definitely a cut above the rest!
WORKS BEST FOR: Ruler-straight hair–it’s a must.
COP IT: Apply a nickel-sized dollop of styling crème and blow-dry hair with the nozzle pointed down, swinging your comb back and forth like a pendulum–this allows some fullness at the root area while keeping ends sleek. With graphic cuts like this, shine spray is key for that sleek-as-ice finish.

Disconnected Pixie

STYLE SCOOP:
“I love this look––it’s refreshing and sexy!”
WORKS BEST FOR: Thick, wavy locks.
COP IT: Begin with freshly washed hair and apply a quarter-size amount of mousse (try: Bumble and Bumble curl conscious), then comb in a low part. Push the bang to form a slight S-wave, scrunching it in an upward direction. Air- or diffuse-dry, then give hair one last tousle with the fingers. Avoid using a brush, as it will interrupt the wave, cautions Rhys.

A-line Bob with Slanted Bangs

STYLE SCOOP:
“This longer bob (aka ‘lob’) brings to mind Victoria Beckham’s ‘pob’.”
WORKS BEST FOR: Fine to medium textured, bone-straight hair.
COP IT: Split hair into two sections down the back, using a Denman brush to guide one side in toward the face. This creates a nice bevel on the ends, says Rhys; repeat on the other side. Next, blow-dry bangs back and forth (think: windshield wiper movement) to prevent puffiness. Finish with shine serum.

Self: Easy Beauty

Something shocking

What Einstein wished he knew: Switching on a humidifier while you blow-dry your hair can stop static. The science is simple. Dry winter air causes stick-up: the mist helps replace lost moisture, explains Jet Rhys, a stylist in San Diego.